A home inspection is one of the most important steps in buying a house. For a few hundred dollars, a trained inspector examines the property from the roof to the foundation and tells you what is working, what is worn out and what could become a costly problem. Knowing what inspectors actually look for helps you prepare, ask better questions on inspection day and read the final report with confidence.
This checklist walks through the major areas of a standard home inspection, the warning signs that matter most and the situations where you may want a specialist to take a closer look.
1. Roof and Attic
The roof protects everything underneath it, so inspectors start here whenever it is safe to do so. They look at the type and age of the roofing material, missing, curled or cracked shingles, damaged flashing around chimneys and vents, and clogged or sagging gutters. Many roofs last roughly 20 to 30 years depending on the material and climate, so a roof near the end of its life is a major negotiation point.
In the attic, the inspector checks insulation levels, ventilation, signs of past or active leaks, water stains on the underside of the roof deck and evidence of pests. Poor ventilation can trap moisture, which leads to mold and shortens the life of the roof.
2. Exterior, Siding and Drainage
Outside the home, inspectors evaluate siding, trim, windows, doors, decks, porches and railings. They look for rot, cracks, peeling paint, gaps that let in water or pests and loose or unsafe railings. Grading and drainage matter just as much. The soil around the house should slope away from the foundation so that rainwater does not collect near the walls. Downspouts should discharge several feet from the house.
3. Foundation, Basement and Crawl Space
The foundation carries the weight of the entire house. Inspectors check for horizontal or stair-step cracks, bowing walls, uneven floors, sticking doors and signs of water intrusion such as stains, efflorescence (white mineral deposits) or a musty smell. Small hairline cracks are common in many homes, but wide, growing or horizontal cracks can point to structural movement and should be reviewed by a structural engineer.
In crawl spaces, inspectors look for standing water, damaged vapor barriers, wet insulation, wood rot and signs of termites or other wood-destroying insects.
4. Plumbing System
Inspectors run water at fixtures, flush toilets and check water pressure and drainage speed. They examine visible supply and drain pipes for leaks, corrosion and the type of material used. Older homes may still contain galvanized steel or polybutylene pipes, which can cause problems over time. The water heater is checked for age, rust, proper venting and a working temperature and pressure relief valve. Most tank water heaters last around 8 to 12 years.
5. Electrical System
Electrical issues are a safety concern, so this part of the inspection is thorough. The inspector opens the main panel and looks for the panel brand and condition, proper breaker sizing, double-tapped breakers, scorch marks, exposed wiring and missing covers. Outlets are tested for correct wiring and grounding, and ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection is checked in kitchens, bathrooms, garages and exterior locations. Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors should also be present and working.
Red flags include knob-and-tube wiring, aluminum branch wiring, overloaded panels and amateur DIY work. If any of these appear, a licensed electrician should evaluate the system.
6. Heating, Cooling and Ventilation
The inspector operates the furnace or heat pump and air conditioning to confirm that they start, run and produce the expected temperature change. They check filters, ductwork, visible burners or heat exchangers where accessible, condensate lines and the age of the equipment. Furnaces and air conditioners commonly last about 15 to 20 years, so an older system may need replacement soon. Ask the seller for service records if they are available.
7. Interior Rooms
Inside the house, the inspector looks at walls, ceilings, floors, windows, doors, stairs and railings. Water stains on ceilings, cracks above door frames, sloping floors and windows that do not open or lock properly can hint at larger issues. They also test a sample of doors and windows, check for fresh paint covering stains and confirm that stair railings are secure.
8. Kitchen, Bathrooms and Built-In Appliances
Inspectors test the dishwasher, range, oven, exhaust fan and garbage disposal where included. In bathrooms, they check for leaks under sinks, loose toilets, damaged caulking, soft spots near tubs and showers, and ventilation fans that vent outside rather than into the attic. Soft or discolored flooring around a toilet or tub often means a hidden leak.
9. Garage and Safety Features
An automatic garage door should reverse when it meets an obstruction. Inspectors test this safety feature, check fire-rated doors between the garage and house and look for proper ventilation and wiring in the garage space.
10. What Is Usually Not Covered
A standard inspection is visual and non-invasive. It generally does not include testing for radon, mold, asbestos, lead paint, well water, septic systems, swimming pools, sewer line condition or termite damage unless you request those add-on services. Inspectors also cannot see inside walls or under finished floors. If the home is older or you notice warning signs, ask whether specialty inspections make sense.
Common Red Flags to Watch For
- Active roof leaks or a roof near the end of its life
- Major foundation cracks or signs of ongoing movement
- Evidence of water intrusion, mold or persistent moisture
- Outdated or unsafe electrical panels and wiring
- Aging heating, cooling or water heating equipment
- Signs of termites or other wood-destroying insects
- Unpermitted additions or poor-quality DIY repairs
How to Prepare for Inspection Day
Attend the inspection if you can. Walking through the property with the inspector is one of the best ways to learn how the house works, where the shutoff valves are and which maintenance items need attention. Bring a notebook, ask questions as you go and take photos of anything that concerns you. Make sure the inspector has access to the attic, crawl space, electrical panel, water heater and all rooms.
What to Do After the Report
Most reports are long and list many small items. Focus on safety issues, major systems and anything that affects the structure or the building envelope. Then decide how to respond. Depending on your contract, you may ask the seller to make repairs, request a credit, renegotiate the price or, in some cases, walk away. Get quotes from licensed contractors for serious findings so your requests are based on real numbers rather than guesses.
Simple Maintenance Habits After You Move In
The inspection report is also a useful maintenance plan for your first year of ownership. Keep a copy handy and work through the items in order of priority. Start with safety, such as testing smoke and carbon monoxide detectors and fixing loose railings or exposed wiring. Then move on to protecting the building from water by cleaning gutters, extending downspouts and sealing gaps around windows, doors and roof penetrations.
Replace HVAC filters regularly, flush the water heater according to the manufacturer’s instructions and schedule an annual service visit for the furnace and air conditioner. Walk around the house every season and look for new stains, cracks, soft spots or musty smells. Small problems that are caught early are almost always cheaper and easier to fix than the same problems left alone for years.
Final Thoughts
No house is perfect, and every inspection report will list some defects. The goal is not to find a flawless home but to understand exactly what you are buying and to avoid unpleasant surprises after closing. Use this checklist to prepare, choose a qualified and licensed inspector and treat the report as a roadmap for negotiating and for maintaining your new home for years to come.